Max suggests that you should take precautions against tick-borne diseases for your dog (and yourself) this spring and summer by checking for ticks frequently and watching for telltale symptoms like nausea, and lethargy, sudden lameness and joint pain or anorexia. The most common tick-borne disease affecting animals and humans is Lyme Disease, usually carried by the deer tick. Also known as "The Great Imitator", Lyme Disease can mimic over 200 other illnesses, but once diagnosed it can be treated with antibiotics. Other less common diseases include Rocky Mountain Spotted fever, which can be potentially fatal if untreated.
If you intend to take your dog with you to grassy or wooded areas this spring, you can aid in tick control by placing a flea and tick collar on them in March and changing it frequently (every 3 to 4 months). One of the more effective collars that has become recently available should contain the active ingredient amitraz (Preventic:Verbac). This particular collar will generally cause the tick to release from the skin in 24 to 48 hours, which provides for a safer precaution, as most diseases transmitted by ticks require 48 to 72 hours.
If you do find a tick attached to your dog or yourself, do not use any of the old "legendary" ways of removing them with burned matches, petroleum jelly or any chemicals, as they can make it difficult to remove the tick intact. The recommended method is gently grasping the body of the tick with tweezers or a tissue, and slowly pulling directly away without twisting or jerking. If parts of the mouth break off in the skin, try to remove them with a sterilized needle and wash the area of the bite (and your hands) with soap and water, and then apply an antiseptic. Keep track of the date of the bite and watch for any disease symptoms, and if you suspect any problems, see your vet (or doctor) immediately.
My job as a Working Retriever has many potential hazards, and one of my owner’s greatest fears is for me to get bitten by a rattlesnake! Without immediate first aid, a hunting dog (as well as all breeds) can be in a life threatening situation. Some hunting dog owners actually have their canine companions "snakeproofed" through training by using an electronic collar. One method is to "plant" a defanged snake and then deliver an electronic jolt as the dog gets near. The first time is generally done with a silenced rattle so as to ingrain the smell of the viper, and the next step is without restriction so the sound of the rattle becomes another warning signal. Some feel that this can be a waste of time, as many bites occur as the dog is "working" at such speeds that it may not get a chance to hear or smell the snake before it strikes.
In the unfortunate event of a rattlesnake bite, my veterinarian has informed my owner of some important advice that could help save my life. He says that rattlesnake venom consists of digesting enzymes that destroy tissue and cause bleeding, as well as nonenzymatic polypeptides that act on the circulatory and respiratory systems to cause shock. Shock is more likely when bitten by a snake in the spring, and by a young rattlesnake. Also, a highly agitated snake or a severed head is likely to inject a larger volume of venom.
If Bitten...
The smaller the dog the higher the dosage of venom it receives from a bite, and therefore the more serious the case. Rapid swelling takes place in the first five minutes, and then looks like real deep bruising. Eventually the skin starts flaking off. Access to antivenom can deliver full effect if obtained within 2 to 3 hours. If used within 24 hours, it will be about half as effective. Generally dogs that are bitten by a rattlesnake lose about a two inch patch of skin, which can result in long term damage on the smaller breeds, providing that it survives the venom shock.
1) The most important thing to do is to get your dog to a veterinarian as soon as humanly possible!
2) Restrict your dogs activity (movement) as much as possible!
3) Do not attempt first aid such as application of tourniquets or incisions to remove venom!
There are three medications that can be used while transporting the
patient to a veterinary facility: Antibiotics to stop infection in damaged tissue,
Benadryl to calm the patient, and athletic drinks containing electrolytes to lessen shock
from poor circulation, body fluid pooling in bitten extremities and hemorrhaging.
DO NOT allow any of the above mentioned first aid measures to be
thought of as an excuse for delaying transportation to a veterinary hospital!
Some advice for humans...
I am also very concerned for my masters well being, so here is some advice for him and yourself in case of a rattlesnake bite.
What to do:
What not to do:
Usually very little venom will reach the bloodstream if prompt, firm pressure is applied over the bitten area and the limb is immobilized. The best advice is to avoid close contact if you meet a snake - leave it alone, and it is likely to leave you alone. Wear stout shoes and adequate clothing (long trousers and jacket) if you are camping or walking in "snake country". Be alert when walking in tall grass. Walk around it or hit out noisily with a stick or stomp hard on the ground before walking through. If you need to put your hand in a hollow log, carefully check inside the log first. Always use a light around camps and farmhouses at night.
This article is for informational purposes only. No liability is assumed or implied in its use. After all, I’m only a bird dog!
Every attentive hunter knows that the muzzle of the gun should never be pointed towards another person. That "cardinal rule" must also apply to your favorite hunting partner, your dog! We all get caught up in the excitement of the hunt and concentrating on getting the bird, and it is there that we can be all too "forgetful" on the importance of safety. One example could be for me to jump at a flushed bird (although I know that I should wait for it to be shot and commanded to retrieve) and therefore I’m in danger of being shot. And on the other hand, you may be so intent on the bird that you might not see how close I am. Everyone must be conscious of what is happening at the moment and be able to avoid dangerous situations at a split second. ‘Tis better to go home empty handed than with a wounded or dead dog!
In the myriad of dog food companies with a variety of formulas like "Super Premium", "Premium", "Non-Premium", which one IS the right dog food? My owner has always tried to select a brand that he feels is good for me based primarily on recommendations from friends and trainers, but hadn’t really understood the differences until we researched it further. After trying to interpret the confusing labels on a few different bags of dog food, we decided to "surf the Dog Net" to find out just what all this means.
Understanding the basics of pet nutrition is the platform for selecting the right diet for your K-9 companion and realizing how age, condition and lifestyle play a very important part in your decision. If your pet is a puppy (less than one year old) it will require foods that contain a higher protein and nutrient content than those needed for the adult dog. More active dogs like the hunting breeds (particularly during hunting seasons) may also require additional protein and fats that are present in the performance foods. Dogs that are thin or overweight should pay a visit to their vet to determine if they have any medical problems and if they require special diets.
"Read the Label"
As the pet food label provides you with a great deal of information, it may not tell everything that you want to know and you need to rely on the company’s testing and research and their reputation for producing a high quality food with a complete and balanced nutritional content.
Certain nutrient guarantees are required on the label of all pet foods. These are:
% Crude protein (minimum amount) % Crude fat (minimum amount)
% Crude fiber (maximum amount) % Moisture (maximum amount)
The word "crude" simply means that the minimum or maximum
amount shown is determined by lab assay and is not the amount actually utilized by the
animal, so the figures given in the guaranteed analyses do not necessarily indicate the
product’s quality or nutritional balance.
The manufacturer may also list any additional guarantees such as vitamins and minerals, and will be listed after moisture. Look for meat protein that may be listed as "chicken or lamb meal". Beware of brands that list only "chicken or meat by-products" as they may contain only chicken feet and heads or no meat at all thus making it harder for your dog to digest.
Categories of Products
Based on an animal's age and body condition, a category of foods with the appropriate nutrition to meet these varying needs are recommended by a reputable manufacturer:
Dog Food Categories for Adult Animals
Growth Foods - Growth or All Life Stages Claim
(appropriate for reproduction and hardworking dogs)
Protein: 21% or greater
Fat: 8% or greater
Adult Foods - All Life Stages Claim or Maintenance Claim
Protein: 21- 26%
Fat: 8 - 18%
Reduced Calorie Foods - Maintenance Claim
Protein: 14 - 25%
Fat: 7 - 8%
Performance Foods - All Life Stages Claim
Protein: 27% or greater
Fat: 9% or greater
The Bottom Line
After all of the surfing and reading and comparing, it looks like super premium, premium and non-premium products can all offer 100% complete and balanced nutrition. So as long as my dog food is labeled such and it suits my palate, the rest is up to my owner as where to conveniently shop and how much he wants to spend.
Remember, the higher the quality of food, the more digestible it is, and the less I have to eat to receive the nourishment I need. And last but not least, the less I eat the less my owner has to clean-up after me!
Max
I don’t know about you, but me and my owner are going through bird hunting withdrawals this time of year! BUT, he’s going fishing all of the time now and I’m just laying around wishing that I was running through the fields and trying to scent or retrieve a bird. My only thing to look forward to is when "dad" comes home and gives me some attention and then all is well again for a while.
One thing that hunting dog owners need to remember is that we need to "get out" and exercise once in a while as well as some training refresher courses to stay in shape. A fifteen to thirty minute session of retrieving training bumpers or going for a swim or even a run in the park will help keep us in shape and refresh our memory of your commands.
If I just lay around all day and do nothing but eat and drink (and maybe bark a couple of times), I’m going to get fat and lazy and not remember what you want me to do when we finally get out for a hunting trip!
By taking a few minutes out of your busy schedule every few days or once a week, it will help us to maintain the lean and mean bird hunting machine that we both want, and make an easier transition into the fall hunting season. My owner tries to take me for an exercise or training session when his time allows, and I love every one of them! I can’t wait for the Fall hunting season and I hope to be in good shape so that I can hunt birds efficiently everyday that I can! (I think I will be).